THE PERANAKANPrecious photographs kept by Nyonya Pat Lin of her own grandmother and extended family showed that babas and nyonyas were quite the fashionistas at the turn of the 20th century. The women were not the only trendsetters. The men in the prominent Tan Tock Seng/ Tan Kim Ching clan were equally dandy Anglophones living lavish lifestyles as loyal subjects of the British Empire. California-based Pat presents a fascinating sartorial record of her family from that time.
Married into the culture
It was the Dutch philosopher, Erasmus, who said, “Vestis verum facit”, or clothes maketh the man. To quote Mark Twain, “There is no power without clothes.” Without a doubt, my grandmother Leong Lai Tho exuded a strong presence. Her range of attire throughout her lifetime, drawing from multiple traditions, reflected an individual who would not be taken lightly.
Leong Lai Tho as a 13-year-old girl. Circa 1905.
My grandfather, Baba Tan Kwee Swee, was the grandson of Tan Kim Ching, who was the son of Tan Tock Seng. He was a carefree divorcee when he set first eyes on 13-year-old Leong Lai Tho in Penang. He was smitten. Born in Macau of mixed Portuguese ancestry, her mother was an inveterate gambler who fled from debtors to Penang where a branch of her family had already settled. Great-grandmother took her two youngest daughters with her but they had to survive by doing needlework. Both sisters would probably have been sold had it not been for Great Grandma parading them on the Esplanade on Chap Goh Mei night!
(Right) Mrs Tan wears imported Edwardian jewelry – a diamond starburst pendant, chain and watch. The pendant was one of a set of diamond star pins the King of Siam gave as gifts to her and Mrs Seow Poh Leng.
(Right) Baby Maggie Tan. Circa 1913.
Grandma Leong married at the age of 14 years and had all her three children by the time she was 18. Here she is shown with two of her children, John Tan Thoon Lip and the future Dr Maggie Lim, my mother. Grandma was known for her looks, but she really brought the brains into the gene pool. Highly intelligent, she was a voracious reader and well-versed in Chinese classics. Both John and Maggie excelled in their studies and were Queen’s Scholars.
Upon marrying into the family, Grandma was groomed by Grandpa’s stepmother with whom he was close, and educated in English and Baba Malay by tutors he hired. The gossip was that Grandma had used koon tau or black magic on him, and she never got over being referred by the establishment bibiks as “Macau” (a derogatory term for loose women) but also for the fact she was born in Macau.
Because she was an “outsider”, she adapted completely to the demands of being a model nyonya. Her close relationship with Mrs Seow Poh Leng, the daughter of Grandpa’s brother, Baba Tan Boo Liat, also helped her gain acceptance. In the end, both her children brought a kind of redemption.
A family photo with Grandma seen in a crisp white baju koon. This photo was taken in the orchid garden of their home at 5 Mount Elizabeth where the hospital now stands. Her skill as a horticulturist – growing and selling orchids – enabled the family to supplement their diminishing income in the challenging years before the war. Circa 1935.
Grandma in a simple baju shanghai and heels. Grandpa is holding his topi (sun helmet) and a walking stick that was part of a gentleman’s accessories.
Because Grandma was an “outsider” and not born a nyonya, she adapted so completely to the demands of the culture. Here she is seen in traditional baju panjang with the kerosang ibu set and a thick gold chain, and a pair of gelang kaki on her ankles. The gold chain was one of the pieces she held onto the bulk of jewelry was sold during the Great Depression to keep the family alive. As with many of the local towkays, Grandpa lost the immense wealth of past generations and the family was forced into living in much reduced circumstances.
From the 1930s-50s, the preferred fashion in Singapore was the cheongsam or baju Shanghai. With the cheongsam came rolled hair and open-toe shoes. Grandma Leong (left) is carrying my sister Gillian and Mrs Seow (right) is holding baby Lim Su Min. With the two grandmas are Stella Kon (right) and Pat (left). Circa 1948.
In sporty flapper style. My mother Maggie and Grandma were among the first to cut their hair in the early 1930s flapper “bob” style. Grandpa Kwee Swee was livid with Maggie for cutting her hair but shut up when Grandma also sheared her hair.
The Dandy Babas
(Right) Grandpa Kwee Swee’s brother, Tan Boo Liat, suavely turned out in top and tails plus tongkat. Both brothers were educated at Raffles Institution.
